Xaviere Guitars

eddiefive10 · January 13, 2011, 04:19:01 PM

Has anyone tried them??? I look at the pics all the time on the guitar fetish site and they look nice

justinhedrick · January 14, 2011, 11:33:21 AM

I want one too!

they LOOK really cool. i'm not a fan of the orange-y tint on the non painted necks.

the gibson rip offs look really good though!

Discö Rice · January 18, 2011, 01:45:21 PM

Indeed. I've been eyeing that heritage cherry SG copy. Looks nicer than the Epi sg by a damn sight.

VOLVO))) · January 18, 2011, 02:34:18 PM

Straight up? Same case as these with guitars you get from Rondo. Order some new hardware and pickups to go with them, and you'll have a rockin' axe. My only worry for the non-guitar-tech guys is shotty fretwork, and a bad nut. Those are two things that could possibly suck on a sub-200 dollar instrument... Shit, Gibson makes 3500 dollar guitars with plastic nuts and shitty fretwork...

Discö Rice · January 18, 2011, 04:02:15 PM

Well I've wanted an SG standard forever, but my current budget doesn't allow for it, so I think this might do in the short term for 200 bones.

justinhedrick · January 18, 2011, 04:33:33 PM

Quote from: Discö Rice on January 18, 2011, 04:02:15 PM
Well I've wanted an SG standard forever, but my current budget doesn't allow for it, so I think this might do in the short term for 200 bones.

let me know how it works out! i want a new guitar in 2011!

Discö Rice · January 18, 2011, 04:49:23 PM

The Agile LP's on Rondo look amazing. The pricier ones ($600 range) with the set necks, ebony fretboards, and abalone inlays are impressive.

I'm partial to this one with the Seymour Duncan pups.

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here's a link to the specs: http://www.rondomusic.com/product3215.html

I wish they had nicer SG copies. I see what they're going for function wise, but I don't like the look.

especially compared to the xaviere SGs

I'd like to play one, at least. Even if I had to gut the electronics and do a proper setup it'll at least be fun to dink around with.

VOLVO))) · January 18, 2011, 05:54:38 PM

Ill offer the service of doing all the swapping and modding to tou'se guys. Just jave the guitar and parts shipped to me initially.

justinhedrick · January 18, 2011, 05:57:21 PM

Quote from: SunnO))) on January 18, 2011, 05:54:38 PM
Ill offer the service of doing all the swapping and modding to tou'se guys. Just jave the guitar and parts shipped to me initially.

for realz sunn? where you located?

Discö Rice · January 18, 2011, 06:08:41 PM

Much obliged, Mr. O))). I'll let you know as soon as I have things more fleshed out.

beardofcthulhu · January 18, 2011, 06:28:38 PM

I've been eying up the build your own kits on GF...but they already gouged out the Rhoads for a floyd Rose, which I do not want. Those Xaviere Sg's look phenomenal.

Discö Rice · January 18, 2011, 06:55:24 PM

I think I might go with this one and that yellow burst one in my earlier post, depending on how this one works out. I'm thinking cosmetically I might swap for a white/black/white pickguard, white speed knobs, and white pickup mounts (is that what they're called?). I just love the way a white guitar looks when it's beat up, which is bound to happen given my clumsiness and... exuberance. Will switch to some fine tuning grovers and a bone or brass nut. I've heard good things about the GFS pups, so I may leave them in initially.

VOLVO))) · January 18, 2011, 07:08:35 PM

Tallahassee, FL. Im pretty enamored with those Xavier SGs. The agile valkyrie looked more like the ESP viper than an SG... Id have to take that headstock to the band saw, though...

tomz. · January 18, 2011, 07:14:58 PM

^^agreed on the headstock comment ^^

Discö Rice · January 18, 2011, 08:04:57 PM

Hey SunnO))) - think you could install these?

http://www.guitarfetish.com/Onboard-Switchable-Wah-Wah-Midrange-Booster-Complete-Kit_p_573.html

http://www.guitarfetish.com/Analog-Delay-COMPLETE-Install-kit-Cool-Retro-Sounds_p_95.html

This guitar is going to be my noise machine. I like being able to control these things without having to bend down to adjust knobs, and it's just kinda cool and gadgety, which I love. Now if they'd just make an onboard Murf...

VOLVO))) · January 18, 2011, 09:33:59 PM

Pretty sure i could. Ive never put more than one of those in at a time... probably easy enough to do

VOLVO))) · January 18, 2011, 09:49:28 PM

Actually, email them and ask them if it can be done with one jack. They'll both need 9vs, i wonder if there is enough cavity to do all of that in the sg body without more routing.

Hemisaurus · January 18, 2011, 10:32:22 PM

Couldn't you just use one battery for both of them?

Worst install I saw was my buddy with EMGs in his strat, had to take the oickguard off to change the battery!

If it's a 4 knob type, there should be a fair amount of space in the control cavity. You could maybe even stack the circuit boards, or sandwich the component sides together.

Discö Rice · January 18, 2011, 11:28:57 PM

Oy. I think that would be a big load for one battery. The delay alone will chew through a battery pretty damned quick. I'll email them and squeeze as much info as I can out of them.

VOLVO))) · January 19, 2011, 12:33:39 AM

Quote from: Hemisaurus on January 18, 2011, 10:32:22 PM
Couldn't you just use one battery for both of them?

Worst install I saw was my buddy with EMGs in his strat, had to take the oickguard off to change the battery!

If it's a 4 knob type, there should be a fair amount of space in the control cavity. You could maybe even stack the circuit boards, or sandwich the component sides together.

Yeah, They're both 9V draw, I thought. That delay is going to eat that battery in a heartbeat... Maybe we ought to think of a solution before we do anything, haha. Herb, Think they could be wired to the same jack? It doesn't indicate if it's a stereo jack, or not, either... Seems to me that they could just be series'd together, but I don't know if it'll effect the output of the guitar itself... Ask if it's a stereo jack, what are the dimensions of each board, is it possible to run two in the same instrument without a bunch of grounding problems. Routing extra cavity space is the last thing I feel like doing. We need a "technical support and questions regarding all of your shit" sticky thread in here... I'll PM someone about that. Shipping sounds like it'll be expensive. It might be cheaper just to walk you through this, haha. I do love working on guitars though...

VOLVO))) · January 19, 2011, 12:51:26 AM

Er, don't ask them shit, they had a FAQ at the bottom of the page... hahahahaha. I didn't know the pots replaced the pots on the guitars, that makes like a lot easier. The one I installed just hooked into one of the existing pots...

Where do I mount the MODboard?

MODboards are designed to mount within your guitar. Each board is 1 3/8" x 2". In general you need a control cavity that is at least 1 1/2" deep- That will allow you to mount the MODboard in the cavity and still have room for either a concentric pot module or Push/Pull on/off switch. In many guitars space is tight, so you will need to carefully plan your install, and be very patient when installing the MODboard.

Should I shield my cavity?

Yes we recommend shielding the controls cavity using either conductive paint or metal foil tape.

How do I know which controls I need?

Every MODboard need three separate controls-

1. On/Off Switch
2. Potentiometer 1 - J1 - Top Jumper Block-
3. Potentiometer 2 - J2 - Bottom Jumper Block-

The Switch may be either a Push/Pull switch (Part # PPOT) or a surface mounted mini switch. (Part # MSW) You can use the Push/Pull control to replace a normal passive control on your guitar- either a volume or tone control. The pots may be either two separate pots (Part # SPOT) or a single Concentric pot (Part # CPOT). The third paramteter is J3, which is a board-mounted pot. This control is set during your testing and is not variable during performance.

What's a good setup for a Strat?



There are two basic Strat setups- "Modded" concentric and "Stock" separate.

In modded mode you replace the middle tone control with a concentric pot. You replace the tone control with a push/pull pot. The volume pot stays as-is, and using this configuration your controls from top to bottom are- Volume (Passive), Concentric (CPOT) knobset (Active), Master Tone (Passive). When the Tone knob is down the guitar acts exactly like a passive Strat, with Volume and Tone control. (The tone knob affects all three pickups)

In "Stock" mode you actually lose some passive control, relocate the volume control, but the guitar now looks totally stock. You replace the Volume pot with a single active (SPOT) pot for Parameter 1, replace the neck tone control with (SPOT) Parameter 2, and then install a (PPOT) push/pull pot in the bottom hole. This becomes your Passive volume control and your on/off control. You have no tone control using this system. If you want the volume control in the top hole, which just feels better to most players, you'll need to use a standard 250K pot and a separate SPST switch for on/off. We like to put the switch between the lower two knobs.

What's a good Setup for a Les Paul or similar?





You have two basic four-knob, twin humbucker setups- "Modded" concentric and "Stock" separate.

Modded mode leaves the two separate Volume controls, a single Master Tone control, and you install a single stacked (CPOT) concentric pot stack to control the MODboard. This gives you the most passive control when the MODboard is off, but you lose one vintage knob and install a concentric knob. This is also far easier than the stock method, since you do not have to rewire the toggle switch.

Stock mode leaves you with four stock looking knobs- You now have a single Master Volume (Passive) knob, single Master Tone (Passive) knob, and then searate (SPOT) knobs for the two adjustable MODboard parameters. You must replace either passive controls with a passive push/pull control to switch the unit on and off.

What about a PRS or similar?

A typical PRS has a single rotary or toggle switch, Master Volume and Master Tone. You must lose your tone control, replacing it with a concentric Pot. You replace your volume control with a push/pull on/off switch. In general you'll use the PPOT-500.

Can I leave everything stock and just have an on/off switch?

Sure- You MUST use pots to control J1 and J2- if you have the room you can simply hook up the SPOT single potentiometers and tuck them into the control cavity, leaving a totally stock layout.

Can I use Multiple MODboards in a single application?

Sure- most MODboards run at idle pulling only .35MA- even maxed out you never exceed 18ma, so you should be able to operate 3 effects off of a single 9 Volt battery.

Can I modify the MODboards?

There are many way to modify the MODBoards, but ANY mods to the circuit board itself will void your Guitarfetish 1 year warranty.

Discö Rice · January 19, 2011, 02:23:03 AM

Haha good eye. I missed that completely. Good to know it'll work (providing I don't fuck it up).

Hemisaurus · January 19, 2011, 09:53:23 AM

You should ask about current draw then, don't assume one is enough and two is too many, or vice versa.

You could rig a phantom power system, send the supply up the extra conductor in a TRS 1/4", if signal common and power common are the same thing, then you'd need an adaptor box at the amp end, that takes the TRS 1/4" in and has a plain TS out for your amp. Seems like more bother than it's worth. I remember crewing for a band where the guitarist used a MIDI pedal controller to control his preamp, what a PITA, running MIDI cables from front of stage to the back, getting a power source up front to the pedal controller.

That said, muggins here has a bloody digital preamp and a MIDI pedal controller too, but I never gig with it.

How about a separate discrete small power jack somewhere on the guitar, and a power pack mounted on the strap, where you can put in multiple 9V batteries in parallel for longer life or, showing my age here, back in the day, back in the old country, there were two types of 9V battery PP3 is the one we all know for pedals and smoke alarms, PP9 was a monster, about the size of a lantern battery, but 9V not 6V, and it used to go in the old fashioned transistor radios. One of those would last you a while.

Discö Rice · January 19, 2011, 01:08:26 PM

Seems like phantom power would save me from having to route out a separate cavity or do any drilling. I am concerned about the amount of internal space an SG has to offer, but it seems like the drawback would be that I'd have to run any additional effects through an effects loop, which seems to kinda castrate stomp boxes.

justinhedrick · January 19, 2011, 01:49:34 PM

didn't brian may have some funky power supply running into his red special back in the day that roger mayer made so he could run hundreds of feet of guitar cable?

why not just have a 9v jack put on the guitar? run yourself a power cable along w/ your instrument cable?