Amp Tech Thread / Ask a tech Q

[rayinreverse]

I believe there would be room if its a mixed quad. Would tonal differences be worth it I wonder.

[Hemisaurus]

All your really doing is mixing in two tubes that won't break up, as they have way more headroom with two that will, if you push them hard. I suppose it could be worth doing if you only run one amp, and need a bit more of that clean sound blended in. Though you could try doing some kind of blend in the preamp too. If you run two amps, turn the gain down on one a bit and make it cleaner, and work from that.

[dunwichamps]

to be honest the last thing i would say that is problematic with adding in KT88s is that your grid leaks are way out of spec for this setup

most 6l6 amps with 4 tubes probably use 220k grid leaks on both sides. A single Kt88 is rated for a maximum of 100k grid leak (including grid stop resistor) so you are nearly 5 times larger than the recommended spec for Kt88s. The problem with using a oversized grid leak is that when you really get the amp ripping, your going possibly go into runaway bias problems due to large grid leakage of KT88s. the grid leakage current will cause a voltage drop across the grid leaks and this will increase the bias voltage under heavy load and this is a positive feedback mechanism, once u go to far you will lead to runaway red platting at large volumes.

[Hemisaurus]

He's not pushing them nearly hard enough for that to be an issue, look at the voltages on the schematic.

Is it do-able? yes, if the power supply can handle the increased heater current, and there is enough physical space in the unit, and the KT's are matched well with the 6L6's.

Is it worth doing? who knows.

[dunwichamps]

He's not pushing them nearly hard enough for that to be an issue, look at the voltages on the schematic.

Is it do-able? yes, if the power supply can handle the increased heater current, and there is enough physical space in the unit, and the KT's are matched well with the 6L6's.

Is it worth doing? who knows.

I disagree, if you plan on slamming it hard running it really loud using grid leaks that large is problematic.

[Hemisaurus]

Build it, prove it

[dunwichamps]

Build it, prove it

chew on this instead

[VOLVO)))]

Whoa. I'll take it! Lemme know if you want someone to prototype it with a band... 

[liquidsmoke]

Is there some magic secret to tuning low and having low action without tons of tone killing fret buzz that I am not aware of aside from using thick strings, proper truss rod adjustment, and not using a cheap guitar with uneven frets? Some recent news just made my year much more expensive so I'm probably going to end up buying a pretty cheap new guitar instead of a fairly cheap new guitar. I would guess that a more expensive axe would be less likely to need a fretjob. It's like you pay one way or the other no matter what. I like to use the B to B strings from a 7 string set for A tuning. A bit floppy but not ridiculously so although the neck has to be just right or the action has to be mega high like it is on my Epi paul jr that I don't want to put anymore money into.

[Hemisaurus]

I think this is one for Sunn

From my experience, thick strings for good tension, well adjusted truss are the key. There is the whole string length thing, which you could apply to guitar as well as bass, where the total length of string is key for tension. So say you had an instrument where the bridge and the saddles were separate, ie. most Gibson styles with stopbar tailpiece, moving the tailpiece further from the saddles would give you more string length, better tension, whilst keeping the same scale.



So something more like this would be a downtuning monster, as you have all that extra string length, whilst the saddle to nut distance is the same, so the tuning is not affected. I think Erik (inductorguitars) and I discuss it earlier on in this thread.

Just a thought

[Hemisaurus]

See this thread.

[VOLVO)))]

You're not going to get ~quality~ if you skimp, I'll tell you now.

http://www.rondomusic.com/product4669.html

^^^buy one of these

http://www.rondomusic.com/al2000blackflm.html

or one of these^^^



put these on it^^^^


Proper truss rod adjustment = a very small amount of relief. Hell, since I've started doing my own fretwork, I've been setting my necks DEAD STRAIGHT. Even frets will do wonders for your action. Some guitars ~just~ play like shit, though.

Using B To B of a 7 string set is still a really small set, considering. 56-11ish for lights? Those Baritone strings are made for extended scale guitars, so the tension isn't an issue. Use the new string end to file the nut so it seats evenly in the bottom, then play for a while. I usually drop the action as low as it goes, with buzz. Then raise it until it stops, on my guitars. Customers, I usually have a set value to put shit at. You can look for lifting frets, uneven wear etc etc. There's a lot to look at.

[SoupKitchen]

I like how they list a bunch of random specs in those Agile/Rondo ads, but at least in the LP Special copy, they don't list the scale length. I assume it's 24.7" like the Agile SX2000. And all those exclamation points! Why use periods!
That Callisto looks sweet, though. I've heard good things about those guitars being worth every penny and then some.

[SoupKitchen]

This picture just blew my mind.

[RacerX]

I think this is one for Sunn

From my experience, thick strings for good tension, well adjusted truss are the key. There is the whole string length thing, which you could apply to guitar as well as bass, where the total length of string is key for tension. So say you had an instrument where the bridge and the saddles were separate, ie. most Gibson styles with stopbar tailpiece, moving the tailpiece further from the saddles would give you more string length, better tension, whilst keeping the same scale.



So something more like this would be a downtuning monster, as you have all that extra string length, whilst the saddle to nut distance is the same, so the tuning is not affected. I think Erik (inductorguitars) and I discuss it earlier on in this thread.

Just a thought

Something tells me standard-length guitar strings are not gonna cut it. Does anyone make extra-long strings? I also have to imagine all that string behind the saddle is gonna create tuning problems.

[VOLVO)))]

Those baritone strings I posted would work. Baritones are 28-30", so, those strings are what you'd need.

[Hemisaurus]

You think? For a 3 + 3, it's only maybe an extra 4"? Don't have an SG by to measure, but you could adjust the tailpiece distance to fit regular strings, how long is a regular string?

[liquidsmoke]

I'm thinking I must have a fret or two that is too high.

That is one interesting SG there.

I'm still thinking about getting an Ibanez RG for a bit more scale length.

Are those Callistos for $140 actually decent guitars? That's a great price. I like those Agiles but would prefer something less than 10 lbs. Sometimes my mid-weight guitars piss off a nerve or something in my shoulder and I have to stop playing or sit down and put the guitar on my leg.

[VOLVO)))]

The Set neck callistos can be made into great players.

[inductorguitars]

I also have to imagine all that string behind the saddle is gonna create tuning problems.

I thought so too before, but it's actually less. It takes more stretching to bend - if you do lots of 1.5 step bends like Gilmour it might not be a good fit.

[liquidsmoke]

The Set neck callistos can be made into great players.

Thanks for the info dude. I will keep these in mind.

[liquidsmoke]

I also have to imagine all that string behind the saddle is gonna create tuning problems.

It takes more stretching to bend

I don't do a lot of bends but I don't like this idea. Less work is better when playing.

[liquidsmoke]

The Set neck callistos can be made into great players.

It's too bad those juniors all have P90s. Humbucker size P90s would make them more versatile. I want more gain.

Going to jam on my buddy's RG through my Laney this weekend and see how that goes.

[VOLVO)))]

The Set neck callistos can be made into great players.

It's too bad those juniors all have P90s. Humbucker size P90s would make them more versatile. I want more gain.

Going to jam on my buddy's RG through my Laney this weekend and see how that goes.

Ibanez = Ibenhad. Fuck those things. Firewood.

[liquidsmoke]

Ibanez = Ibenhad. Fuck those things. Firewood.

Too thin sounding? What don't you like about them? I would get a fixed bridge model, I have no need for a floyd.

What do you think about Schecters? I like the looks of the Omen model.

I just tuned up to B from A, it destroys with metal power. I'm staying in B.