what makes an orange sound like an orange?

[jibberish]

..taking notes....

edit: btw, to me talk is cheaper, so that's when to get all the godzilla mistakes and misimpressions out of the way , so get ready for some potentially ridiculous questions as i figure out the envelope.  thx again for taking your time.

[dunwichamps]

no problemo

heres the latest build you can clearly see the two ground stars

http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/8645/img0163wh.jpg

its a huge pic so click the link then zoom around

more shit here



Those green yellow pairs are the AC heaters, MUST MUST be twisted tighly and wired so that when signals cross them its a 90 degree so they do not couple into the preamp esp. near V1.

[jibberish]

nice pic. i love looking at resistors, wanna eat em or something.  ok i see how you did that one star on the threaded lug.  do you run signal wires right angles to ac supply wires when they have to cross?  lot more noise induction from parallel power wire.

nothing personal or anything, but that mainboard right there is what i want to change the look-layout and materials used. yours is layed out with care i can see even by how all the wires are. but do you see how the maximum neatness and sexiness is limited with what you have to use there. im not using a generic pegboard. there are a bunch of solder um terminal..pcb rivets wtf they are called, pins, lugs etc etc that can all be installed in a much sexier base plate.   anyway...that's what im thinking about first uber sexy redesign of the materials used.  

other material can be used. acrylic, maybe an opaque one out of resin...w/e thats the things im kicking around.
wiring..i really have yet to see anything even close to what i have in mind very encouraging there.

but i need to feel the circuits first to avoid obvious ignorant blunders.

does orange have a 1 watt version but with the cool tone stacks etc you explained above for that sound still?
do you consider power sections swappable in th ebig picture?

like that cap array on the rotary switch, passive HP filtering..stick that on anything.. can the main amp more-or-less be swapped out too?
or is half the magic in those specific tubes in the power section and other tubes just cant make the magic like a 1 watt tub

[jibberish]

ok, i see you answered my 90 degree question while i was typing too

edit: ya im totally enjoying looking at these pics..labor of love..you sweated a lot of details. "good shit maynerd!".

[dunwichamps]

nice pic. i love looking at resistors, wanna eat em or something.  ok i see how you did that one star on the threaded lug.  do you run signal wires right angles to ac supply wires when they have to cross?  lot more noise induction from parallel power wire.

nothing personal or anything, but that mainboard right there is what i want to change the look-layout and materials used. yours is layed out with care i can see even by how all the wires are. but do you see how the maximum neatness and sexiness is limited with what you have to use there. im not using a generic pegboard. there are a bunch of solder um terminal..pcb rivets wtf they are called, pins, lugs etc etc that can all be installed in a much sexier base plate.   anyway...that's what im thinking about first uber sexy redesign of the materials used.  

other material can be used. acrylic, maybe an opaque one out of resin...w/e thats the things im kicking around.
wiring..i really have yet to see anything even close to what i have in mind very encouraging there.

but i need to feel the circuits first to avoid obvious ignorant blunders.

does orange have a 1 watt version but with the cool tone stacks etc you explained above for that sound still?
do you consider power sections swappable in th ebig picture?

like that cap array on the rotary switch, passive HP filtering..stick that on anything.. can the main amp more-or-less be swapped out too?

ill do my best to follow all your Qs.

As far as the main board goes that works for me but if you do it a new way let me know

1W output power? is that what your referring 2? no orange only made 50Ws i think back in the day for minimum but you can do 1W outputs, its not going to sound the same

That filter can be swapped anywhere really

[jibberish]

ok, thx..ya i blitzed you pretty good.   just throwing ideas around.  i have enough to think about for now.
go do some homework now....fill in more info...


i'd buy your fuckin amp

[dunwichamps]

ok, thx..ya i blitzed you pretty good.   just throwing ideas around.  i have enough to think about for now.
go do some homework now....fill in more info...


i'd buy your fuckin amp

thanks man, i hope you can learn and build one, nothing like that feeling

if you need some ideas on a schematic let me know, i can provide you with info

[Hemisaurus]

Didn't you use what looked like a camo patterned turretboard for that recent build? To sort of answer the jibberish Q. I know turretboards sells that kind of thing, to us mere mortals

http://turretboards.com/circuit_board_material.htm

[dunwichamps]

Didn't you use what looked like a camo patterned turretboard for that recent build? To sort of answer the jibberish Q. I know turretboards sells that kind of thing, to us mere mortals

http://turretboards.com/circuit_board_material.htm

I buy it from Watts Tube Audio, I like his turrets and they solder well but neone can get it from him or newhere else 2, nothing secret there. I am going to switch to black i didnt like the camo color there

[dunwichamps]

i found a schematic for Master Volume 120 watter

kinda interesting take on a matamp but not a clone persay

[jibberish]

all those nuts inside the chassis. do you put loctite or a dab of fingernail polish? i dont see any thread lock stuff.
those can fall off after a while. lock washers or not. just a thought.  i was taught to secure any nuts, standoffs, w/e threaded crap inside housing assemblies.  last thing you need is a nut to drop into the wrong place. no excuse for that preventable mishap.

[dunwichamps]

all those nuts inside the chassis. do you put loctite or a dab of fingernail polish? i dont see any thread lock stuff.
those can fall off after a while. lock washers or not. just a thought.  i was taught to secure any nuts, standoffs, w/e threaded crap inside housing assemblies.  last thing you need is a nut to drop into the wrong place. no excuse for that preventable mishap.

nope, and no body does.

[VOLVO)))]

Buttpussy 4 lyfe

[dunwichamps]

Buttpussy 4 lyfe

amp design is kool, interesting, few things i would change personally but overall its nice

[justinhedrick]

Buttpussy 4 lyfe

amp design is kool, interesting, few things i would change personally but overall its nice

now, what kind of tone stack do they use on that amp? just a standard "fender" type?

also, not to highjack this thread, but i've been sitting here all morning trying to think up a way to "fake" a bax stack with a standard 3 knobber. could you just max the mids and go from there?

[dunwichamps]

Buttpussy 4 lyfe

amp design is kool, interesting, few things i would change personally but overall its nice

now, what kind of tone stack do they use on that amp? just a standard "fender" type?

also, not to highjack this thread, but i've been sitting here all morning trying to think up a way to "fake" a bax stack with a standard 3 knobber. could you just max the mids and go from there?

a FMV cant do it, theres always a mid cut. If you want to see that schematic, you will have to find yourself i dont want to get involved with any shitstorm that brings down

[Hemisaurus]

You can rewire it, but you can't fake it 

[justinhedrick]

You can rewire it, but you can't fake it 

just ask my wife 

[dunwichamps]

you can replace the mids control with a shift control it can easily be rewired on a FMV based amp

[Hemisaurus]

I suppose I should have prefaced that with it can be done easily as long as your pots aren't mounted on a PCB

[justinhedrick]

I suppose I should have prefaced that with it can be done easily as long as your pots aren't mounted on a PCB

hmm. i have a VTM 60. pretty sure they are! oh well.

[dunwichamps]

yea dont even bother

[Hemisaurus]

I suppose I should have prefaced that with it can be done easily as long as your pots aren't mounted on a PCB

hmm. i have a VTM 60. pretty sure they are! oh well.

It's probably do-able, but y'know expert tweaky kind of do-able. Peavey are pretty good with schematics and PCB maps, you could probably desolder the pots from the board, build the bax stack, and re-attach it to the appropriate spot on the PCB, hopefully reversable, but not for the faint of heart.

Get your wife to do it

[dunwichamps]

I suppose I should have prefaced that with it can be done easily as long as your pots aren't mounted on a PCB

hmm. i have a VTM 60. pretty sure they are! oh well.

It's probably do-able, but y'know expert tweaky kind of do-able. Peavey are pretty good with schematics and PCB maps, you could probably desolder the pots from the board, build the bax stack, and re-attach it to the appropriate spot on the PCB, hopefully reversable, but not for the faint of heart.

Get your wife to do it

only bother it if you got some skilzzz. Otherwise its going to be a mess.

[Hemisaurus]

I hate it when Peavey draw schematics like they are in real life, splitting it by the board

Look at the Classic 30 schematics, and compare it to the Classic 50, legibility please.