Hot Deals

[Lumpy]

Yeah, the ones I had withstood some serious abuse...

Months worth?

Don't get me wrong, I've bought a couple of these Behringer cheapies, and I recognize their usefulness. But 30 years from now, your Boss pedal will still be working. That's the difference. Behringer makes some good products, but they are generally dogshit as a company, IMO. Example: I bought a rack crossover from them. It arrived DOA, in the factory box. It never turned on. I have never had that happen with any other product, in any category (not just music gear). It never worked at all.

If you lurk on other gear forums as I do, you will see periodically complaints about Behringer products crapping out. But you don't hear that about products from other companies, at least not in the same numbers.

[Hemisaurus]

Err, Crate, Ampeg, Mackie, Peavey, Fender, Marshall? All been on the bench, along with the Bugera.

Everything wears out, most everything is now made in the Orient (which is the ultimate horror for an American musician). I think by far the worst shit is the STL music stuff, Crates and Ampegs from the 80's - 00's, they are crappy as fuck, I've seen a couple of exceptions, but the fact I saw them means they were broke anyways.

How can you tell your Behringer won't be around in 30 years, they haven't been around long enough yet? The FX unit I bought from them in the late 90's, still going strong, the mixer, ditto. Power Amps installed in clubs, by friends of mine, still working after years of bass abuse. I worked on a Behringer parametric EQ, that had been submerged in the trunk of a flooded car for a week, before it got towed back to dry land, nothing wrong with it, pots were still fine, switches OK, some surface rust that came off with wire wool, and we replaced the jacks just in case.

If you are playing 100 gigs a year, then a plastic stomp may break quicker, are you playing 100 gigs a year? Be realistic about the amount of abuse your gear goes through. I've got some DOD stomps here, in nice metal boxes, with nice metal jacks, and they are buggered anyways.



Note the DOD on the right, where the switch crapped out and was replaced, this is my buddy's pedalboard

[bitter]

I never hard used my behringer acoustic modeler but it sure is flimsy. In my limited usage with it I don't really turn it on by foot. the latch pedal does flex a lot and kind of cracks/pops when pressing down. I think the switch is just hard to access pressure-wise by hand and the latch is flexing side to side. I wouldn't play live with one but that's just me.


Behringer quality control is lacking and their products are kinda hit and miss. you get what you pay for so treat it well and it will survive.

[Hemisaurus]

Did you seat the spring pin thing properly after you put in the battery? I find it makes a little noise (physical not electrical) until it seats right, usually after a couple of presses. That there is a silly design though, needing something pointy to change the battery.

[bitter]

I'm not terribly sure, but that could be it. I've had it for at least 4 years and prolly have maybe 1-2 hours of play time thru it 

[Hemisaurus]

Yeah, you have to make sure the spring pin is seated properly on each side. Should be flush.

[Lumpy]

70's Ampeg V4 (needs work) and Ampeg 8x10, Florida location. $600.

http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f127/vintage-70s-ampeg-v4-head-810-svt-cab-884324/

[ryansummit]

im gonna rehouse the beringer ultra shifter when i get my own(loaner )
tried thee boss version and it lacks for some reason
what i really dont like about the behringer is changing the battery
feel like im violating its personal space with scary instruments
like an anal probe in the ear canals
holy shit what about plasti dipping and line-x ing the plastc housing
should be bomb proof

[I,Galactus]

I like those VHT special 6 amps.  Haven't played one, but reviews are good. 

Looks pretty mod friendly, too:



It doesn't have headphone out, though, if you're looking for that.

[Hemisaurus]

Headphone out would be an easy jigger on a 6W amp, you could either make a little external box, or fit to the amp, there looks like there is space. You'd just need a small load resistor, 8 1W 1Ohm wired in series would work, if you couldn't get your hands on a power resistor, basically you just need a (close to) 8 ohm load @ 6W or more, or whatever that amps output is (4,8, 16?) and a pot across that of a high value 100K-1M, and hook the headphone jack to the wiper of the pot.

[VOLVO)))]

Eyelet board on a chinese amp?

Mindblow.

I'll buy one.

[dunwichamps]

you need to attenuate the signal down to be less than 1W into the headphones, or you risk blowing the drivers out. You also need to factor your headphone impedance into the equation to determine Pout and desired resistive divider. When the headphone output is max it should not exceed 1W into the phones, preferably less than that unless u like being deaf.

The resistive load should be 2 x max power output to avoid problems of derating when resistor is heated up at max power. something like 10W is probably a better idea.

[Hemisaurus]

True. At max, assuming the standard 32ohm headphone, there will be about 1.25W available, perhaps safer to use two resistors in series, and connect the pot across only one of them. Or you could not turn the pot up full to start with

[dunwichamps]

considering people do boneheaded shit id design for it to be under a watt.

[moose23]

You can run the VHT in half power but I'm not sure if that's actually going to be 3 Watts or a bit more but still lower starting point than 6 Watts for designing your headphone out.

[RacerX]

See if you can find a schematic for the Blackstar HT5. It's about the same wattage, & it's got an emulated speaker headphone line out. You can even choose between 2x12 or 4x12, but the 4x12 setting sounds so much better that they could've left the 2x12 option out.

[ryansummit]

i dont know WATT the fuck you guys are talkin about
but i think im gonna learn alot hangin around here

as far as hot deals
THE BUTCHER IS BACK $100 this wknd
maybe yous guys can walk me through some mods
and maintainence tips or whatnot

also goin to pick up randall commander4 on saturday
see i thought the butcher dissappeared,and it did
then it came back,then they put it on ebay,i figured it was gone
out the blue i get email
bitchin
now i can have my commander and butcher it too

if commander=cake, and butcher=eat
nonetheless it gon git loud up in this bitch

[Hemisaurus]

considering people do boneheaded shit id design for it to be under a watt.

So I found this in the shack today, looking in the drawers for something else, figure I should use 4 then?



Actually on consideration $2.69 isn't a bad deal atall, and if you push more than 20W through it, it will be a hot deal. 4 of these would be a nice 50W loadbox for $11

[VOLVO)))]

Butchers are awesome! Kinda bright, though

[Mr. Foxen]

considering people do boneheaded shit id design for it to be under a watt.

So I found this in the shack today, looking in the drawers for something else, figure I should use 4 then?



Actually on consideration $2.69 isn't a bad deal atall, and if you push more than 20W through it, it will be a hot deal. 4 of these would be a nice 50W loadbox for $11

Better off using the aluminium vaned ones, and a heatsink.

[Hemisaurus]

They'll definitely dissipate better, and are way better for big loads. I haven't seen them in use as much over here as in the UK, wonder if they are UK made? I'd imagine some US company makes them too surely.

[Mr. Foxen]

Got the ones in my dummy load from the east, 100w each.

[beerrhino]

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/msg/3034315107.html

[ryansummit]

http://westernmass.craigslist.org/msg/3033264143.html

whats this guy all about

[tombhex]

RYAN, BUY THAT UNIVOX