The Jam Room Blog Thread.

[liquidsmoke]

That Carvin... X100 or whatever?

We had one years ago and there is a heat dissipating resistor with really short leads somewhere in there that got hot enough to melt the solder that held it in. Sprung right out of place.  Perhaps that's the issue here.  Lots of different sounds can come out of that head. Tons of dudes from differing styles play them.

It's the combo version that was built into a head. I wouldn't be surprised if it was just a solder issue.

Looks like a new one costs less than I'd sell mine for. Here's one with a slim, compound radius neck. Aside from color, the only differences I can see are the maple top and this has a Tusq nut. Mine is bone from the factory.

http://www.rondomusic.com/3010secrcsbfslim.html.

I've read "all kinds of shit online posted by people who really don't know a damn thing about what they're talking about" that leads me to believe that these guitars are great for their low cost. My roommate has a 2000 and I think it's nice and could probably handle massive strings and very low tunings quite well. The finish on your's is more up my alley though.

[VOLVO)))]

I wasn't trying to be a dick, I was just sayin'. It's been almost a decade I've seen your posts. How many pieces of wood have you fondled since the beginning? Seriously, there's nothing mystical, magical, or even remotely complicated. I've been doing this as a professional for a long time. I've seen some serious shitboxes. I own and play nothing but shitbox guitars.  You don't have to tell me cheap shit plays well. I just don't understand how you can be so pissy about such miniscule shit. It's just... I dunno, maybe it's just that we're so opposite. I'd play a 2x4 with strings and find something good about it. You can barely touch a guitar without an aneurysm over some string noise, haha.

My point is maybe you oughta lighten up, or just pay someone to unfuck a guitar and make it perfect. Spend the money, and stop searching. Just do it.

[spookstrickland]

Hmmm. I might be able to help if you want an agile.  Neck I think is more like a 60s than a 50s. Sounds like up your alley.



Also, if you like thin necks, the Hagstroms are pretty thin.  

That thing is Beautiful! 

Aside from the pick guard it looks very nice. Which model? About 10 lbs? Any uneven frets? Stock pups? Why do you want to sell it?

Yeah about 10lbs or so. Never noticed any uneven frets, matter of fact this was the first never been touched guitar I'd ever played and I was amazed how nice it was to play mirror finished frets. Everything else I'd ever played was either used or off the shelf, so the frets had been scratched. I'll look at it tonight to decide and inspect.

I never play guitar anymore and if I did I'd be playing my SG. I bought it when I was feeling vulnerable during a 2 week lonely work trip.

[liquidsmoke]

I wasn't trying to be a dick, I was just sayin'. It's been almost a decade I've seen your posts. How many pieces of wood have you fondled since the beginning? Seriously, there's nothing mystical, magical, or even remotely complicated. I've been doing this as a professional for a long time. I've seen some serious shitboxes. I own and play nothing but shitbox guitars.  You don't have to tell me cheap shit plays well. I just don't understand how you can be so pissy about such miniscule shit. It's just... I dunno, maybe it's just that we're so opposite. I'd play a 2x4 with strings and find something good about it. You can barely touch a guitar without an aneurysm over some string noise, haha.

My point is maybe you oughta lighten up, or just pay someone to unfuck a guitar and make it perfect. Spend the money, and stop searching. Just do it.

I'm not putting $300+ into one of my $100 backup guitars. The search will go on until I find/can afford the right replacement for the scroll. I would also play a 2x4 with strings if I had to, trust me.

[Pissy]

Forgive me, but what was this scroll of which you speak?

[Danny G]

Hopefully the scroll hasn't fallen into the crooked hands of Sarumon.


Sent from a can on some string using Tapatalk

[liquidsmoke]

It's crooked alright, going into the hands of the Ebay buyer who wants to fuck with a warped twisted neck. 25.5" scale, solid mahogany.


I have the neck pup ring, just wasn't on when I took this picture. I did manage to lose the truss rod cover though.

[Pissy]

Ah now I remember. What did the Warped neck guys tell you again?  Not fixable?  Or did they fix it and the twist returned?

[liquidsmoke]

Ah now I remember. What did the Warped neck guys tell you again?  Not fixable?  Or did they fix it and the twist returned?

It's been worked on by 2 different shops for warp and twist. Huge waste of money. The neck guy got rid of much of the twist. The luthier did his thing with the frets. But slowly some of the twist returned. You have to have the action pretty high to get clear sounds out of it. I'm done with it. Sometimes you fuck up in life, this was one of those times for me. Should have immediately sent it back to the guy I bought it from on ebay when I first got it but they are fairly rare and I was instantly in love with it so I thought for sure that it could be fixed without too much trouble.

I'll sell it without pickups to any of you for $150 plus shipping.

[Lumpy]

What about putting a replacement neck on it?

[mortlock]

i would, id frankenstein that just because the body is so awesome.

[Pissy]

he went through this on his warped neck vs new guitar thread.  not worth much with a replacement neck.  He's stuck with something more than fully depreciated for the rest of his days.  Unless he wants to pay it forward on Ebay (which would be bad juju) or throw it in the wood stove and provide precious heat for his family during the cold winter months.

[Lumpy]

If he likes everything about the guitar except the neck, then a new neck seems like a good idea. Forget about resale value. (Include the old neck if you have to sell it).

[liquidsmoke]

A new neck, fitted by a pro, is a great idea but I'm not going to put another cent into it. Color matching the body would be pretty much impossible also. Going to have my pops take some high quality well lit photos for the ebay listing. Full discloser.

[RacerX]

Opened for Conan & Serial Hawk tonight—helluva show.

[Pissy]

Nice

[Submarine]

Opened for Conan & Serial Hawk tonight—helluva show.

Sweet!  Any video or audio share?

[justJon]

Got audio of pretty much the whole show. haven't uploaded it or rendered it yet. Still recovering.

[everdrone]

I saw the wofat, mothership, and black pussy show tonight!  killer.  next week my band plays with some heavy rock bands. stoked!!!

[dogfood]

Them Wofat boys!

[jibberish]

I was looking at a motorcycle battery somewhere along the way at the store. it was solid. no more liquid filled lead-acid reality evidently.

anyway, they are compact and solid and I think this would make THEE best pedal supply in the world. I would use the 4 IN4007 rectifier diodes to buck the voltage down to 9.2V and put several levels of fusing in the distribution wiring layout.
you use a standard every day charger on it since it is a standard type battery still.

If you want the ultimate in silent/clean/infinite reserve current/   pedal supplies, there you go.

[Pissy]

Not really. its a real short circuit problem,  they're expensive ($65 for a motorcycle battery at autozone the other day plus core charge) and if you don't know things like AHrs vs info you normally get with a battery for a vehicle -cold cranking amps or marine cranking amps then you have no idea how long it'll last. Plus you have to recharge it.
And the dirty little secret about industrial batteries is that they are dead at 40% capacity.
And it's heavy if you play out.

[jibberish]

Not really. its a real short circuit problem,  

this would be the "several levels of fusing" I referred to, keeping that in mind.

if you don't know things like AHrs vs info you normally get with a battery for a vehicle -cold cranking amps or marine cranking amps then you have no idea how long it'll last.

cold cranking AMPS.  pedalboards use mA. it would last many hours.  that info is in the battery lit on the side of the battery.
Would it be too much of a stretch to assume one would read the label and then KNOW the specs whilst shopping??

and the fact that it uses a std charger makes it no problem.
  bad news chief: ALL batteries need recharging/replacing so i'm not even sure where that came from as an argument against a specific battery vs ANY other battery


have you been pricing these fancy pedal supply rigs lately? some of those supplies cost over $100.


they weigh w/e 10 pounds only and are compact. cant fuck up if it gets knocked over.

*************************************************************************************************************

I feel bad things coming my way now because I actually created debate and wish to defend my stance.

[Pissy]

You'd be better off using the charger from your garage with the step down diodes. Pedals draw 125mA or so, which means 8 draw 1 amp. 1 hour worth of use is 1 Ahr. The more reserve you find, the bigger the battery is going to be. If a motorcycle battery has 10 Ahr reserve I'd be surprised. And you'll only get to use 60% of that.

You said it was the perfect power supply.  I'm saying otherwise.  Building the terminal strip for the barrel connectors alone would be a pain in the ass.

And I don't know about your motorcycle and/or marine batteries, but mine don't have any info on the label describing Ahrs. I looked.

[jibberish]

ok, i'll give you that it isn't perfect. you make good points.

the design goal was super clean power and enough to get through a long show or day

let's assume we find a battery with decent capacity such as this 20 amp hour 13pound beast for $50
http://www.batterysharks.com/SigmasTek-STX20H-BS-p/stx20h-bs_m12-18-310-d.htm

ok, it has to be securely mounted in an enclosure to eliminate any accidental shorting across the battery terminals.
the first level of fusing would be a large auto blade fuse like maybe 10 amps for ctastrphic short protection
the second level of fusing would be all low current glass fast-blo fuses, maybe 250mA in case of a local power tap short, it only blows the local fuse.

I would build the charger circuitry right into the enclosure. they have IC's that make that chore monkey work.
then add an AC relay that activates when you plug the AC power cord into the wall. the relay would kick out the battery->device circuit and engage the battery charger circuit

one could easily use a zener clamp inversely as a min voltage sensor and trip an indicator light(instead of being an actual voltage limiting clamp) when the battery V level is getting "iffy"

and use the good old IN4007 rectifier diodes to buck the battery voltage down to 9.2V


IDK, that's kind of where my ideas are going.

edit: ammo box maybe....a camo ammo box, yeahh heh